San Francisco - Day 4

Coite Tower


The view from the top


Lombard Street with Coite Tower & Telegraph Hill in the background

Well today started interestingly. After a slow start I decided to get to the post office to post off some more scrap book fodder to Mother’s. Programming a playlist of Living Colour and Led Zeppelin (of course – the Gods of Rock would have played their gig by now) live albums I donned my shades – bright and sunny here in San Francisco – and hit the streets.

It is only a few blocks round the corner to Washington Park and the post office is right opposite. I had got to the first corner, where I “make a left”, and this guy standing on the corner goes all rigid and falls over right in front of me trembling from head to toe. Not being American I did not step over him but immediately went to help. My extensive medical training (Boy Scouts First Aid badge and St. John First Aid) [for those of you having an “American moment”: yes – I am taking the piss] told me this guy was having an epileptic fit (petit mal was my diagnosis). Realising there is nothing one can do for this apart from make the poor soul a bit more comfortable I remembered my ABC – didn’t put my fingers in his mouth (I had no gloves anyway) and when he started foaming gently from the mouth put him in the recovery position, put his news paper under his head and then looked up. Three ladies had stopped, one was calling 911 and another was joining me kneeling on the sidewalk asking if I knew him. “No, I was just passing.” I said. Within five minutes (probably more like three) two fire engines arrived, one cleared off when the scene had been appraised, and two paramedics leapt out armed with a variety of bags. (The Fire Department run the ambulances – the public ones – and all fire crews contain paramedics. It appears to be a very good system.) Realising I was superfluous to requirements I took my leave. As I was doing so the guy was returning to consciousness and looking very confused. The remainder of my journey to the post office was quite normal.

I decided to head for Coit Tower today. This is a tower built from a legacy by Mrs. Coit to her beloved San Francisco. It stands at the top of Telegraph Hill and commands some amazing views of the city and the bay. To get to the top one takes an elevator (it does have stairs but they were shut) and the reason I mention this is for reasons of ridicule.

Having purchased a ticket from the gift shop (aaaah aaah) one takes it round to the lift door and presses the button to summon the lift (I’m sure everyone is with me so far). The lift arrives and the lift operator takes one’s ticket, punches a hole in it and invites one into the lift. Once the lift is full (depending on how many people are waiting) the operator pushes the button to close the door and then pushes the top button to get the lift to rise to the top of the tower. As we journeyed upwards I was looking round the lift at the pictures and notices on the walls – pretty, informative, that sort of stuff – when I noticed it! Stuck on the lift wall next to the doors was a sign reading... (you’ve probably guessed it) TIPS underneath which was a plastic wallet folder for collecting them! When I saw this I had to bite my cheek to stop myself from laughing out loud. There was money in it so I assume other people thought that the operator pressed the buttons with a degree of panache and skill which was beyond the average customer! Needless to say I did not add to it and merely thanked the guy on the way out.

Having walked all the way around the tower taking pictures as I went I decided I would walk up “the most crooked street”, which can be seen from the tower. This is actually part of Lombard Street which drops a good 50 metres in a very short distance and the road zigzags its way down it. It is a one-way street and one can only go down it.

Having descended the tower – no tip for gravity – that is exactly what I did. Fortunately the pavement (sidewalk) is actually a flight of steps which can be walked up in a straight line. It is a residential street and there were lots of tourists (myself included) wandering up and down it. I am not sure I would like to live in it with a steady parade of people going past all taking photographs; however it was quite a sight to see. Having got to the top of the hill I found I was about level with the top of Telegraph Hill!
Luckily enough there is a cable car stop at the top of the hill and one had stopped, so I got on. In comparative terms this is a very expensive form of transport – that is when compared to the buses – as it is a $5 flat fare; however it is novel and quite exciting especially when one goes downhill.

When I got back to the hostel I saw on the notice board that today one could get free admission to The Beat Museum. This was literally one block down Broadway from the hostel. I kicked myself for not noticing it sooner as I only had about an hour to look round it. It is dedicated to “the Beat Generation” centring on Jack Kerouac and his journeys and exploits. I have to confess I haven’t read any of his work, but have vowed to correct this and believe that “On The Road” is the place to start. He has also written a book called “Big Sur” which is just down the road from here and is one of many National Parks nearby. I have promised myself I will read some Kerouac when I have finished my current book. To do this though I must put in some more reading time.

Having been “thrown out” of another museum I decided to eat and headed for Little Italy. I wanted to try “The Stinking Rose – a garlic restaurant” but every time I approached it was always full and appeared to be very popular. Never mind The Steppes of Rome had space, so in I went.
I had a lovely three course meal accompanied by some superb coffee and all served to me by a beautiful young lady. I could think of some more ways it could get better than this but that would just be fantasy – so I settled for a lovely meal and some radiant smiles.

Having eaten to satisfaction, I waddled back to the hostel. Feeling rather full I decided sitting up would be best, rather than lying down, so I got out the laptop and played a Supreme Commander skirmish. I am very pleased to say that I was victorious and felt a lot more comfortable afterwards – digestion having worked. I refrained from having “just one more” as I thought I would visit Alcatraz tomorrow if the weather is fine.

Having packed everything up I enquired about the sauna, which was free, so I treated myself to one and went to bed feeling all warm and relaxed and was asleep before the nightclubs really started going!